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| | Home Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit | |
|  | |  | | | Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit | | | | | SKU:
808103 | | In Stock | | Availability:
Usually ships in 1 business days | | | | | | This highly portable oil free pancake-style air compressor packs a punch with an induction motor that provides improved performance and extended life, whether you're filling tires or firing a nailer. Complete with a soft-start motor, the C2002-WK can easily run off of normal household circuits and is able to run at 3.5 SCFM for faster recharge of its 6-gallon tank. The motor features replaceable brushes in order to extend motor life and 150 PSI max pressure to allow for extended run time. It also includes 120 PSI cut-in pressure that provides 30 PSI "Bonus Air" and High-Flo air regulator to protect against a large pressure drop. The C2002-WK includes a 13-Piece Accessory Kit with a 25-foot nylon hose, blow gun and attachments, tire chuck, tire gauge, quick coupler, plugs and Teflon tape. | | | |
List Price:
| $317.77 | |
Our Price:
| $169.99
& this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.
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You Save:
| $147.78 (47%)
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| | Product Details | | Product Length: | 19.0 inches | | Product Width: | 18.0 inches | | Product Height: | 20.94 inches | | Product Weight: | 34.0 pounds | | Package Length: | 20.6 inches | | Package Width: | 19.4 inches | | Package Height: | 17.8 inches | | Package Weight: | 36.8 pounds | | Average Customer Rating: |  based on 116 reviews |
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| | Features | 150 psi max tank pressure stores more air in the tank for longer tool run times2.6 SCFM at 90 psi allows for quick compressor recovery time, per ISO1217Air coupler and plug are factory installed on the air hose to save user labor and to prevent leaks6-gallon pancake-style tank for stability includes water drain valve and rubber feetLow-amp 120-volt motor starts easily in cold weather or with an extension cordEquipped with a durable oil-free pump for long life and no maintenanceShroud, handle, and console cover protect vital components and make unit easier to carry
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| | Customer Reviews | Average Customer Review: ( 116 customer reviews )
Write an online review and share your thoughts with other customers.
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
1453 of 1455 found the following review helpful:
 Great compressor, but know what it's good for 1st, then buy it May 14, 2008
By Flying V
My background: I am a General Contractor/Finish Carpenter, 20yrs in the business. Some of the tool reviews I see are flawed based on perception; "this or that tool doesn't do everything I hoped it would" - regardless of the tool designer's intention. Granted, there are some crappy, poorly designed tools out there, and it's good to have feedback to prevent buying mistakes.
That said, be honest with yourself, what do you need this compressor to do?
Here is what this compressor isn't good for:
(1) Running as the primary compressor for your rough framing gun for production work. Not just because it won't keep up, but also that it will not last as long as an oiled compressor under those conditions.
(2) Running an air-chisel/chipper gun or other large air consumption tool; it will not provide enough CFM at pressure.
(3) Throw-N-Go; yes it's light enough to toss in the back of your truck with ease, but if you don't secure it - expect a lumpy red bowling ball rolling around on the first quick turn/panic stop. (Note: it's stable standing still/won't fall over when bumped)
(4) For homeowners, the hose and accessory kit is adequate, nothing more, nothing less. If you contract, you already know it's not the reason you are buying this compressor.
Here is what it is great for:
(1) The best reason of all - lightweight (34 lbs.) but still has punch. You will actually use this w/o hesitation because of weight. Great for running up stairs. Easy to set down on a moving pad w/o too much worry about denting finished flooring. Easy to move through doorways/prevent damaged jambs. No oily residue around motor. Start-up is circuit breaker friendly. Small footprint/low profile, (a real asset when carrying so many tools).
(2) Great for running finish guns. They don't have high CFM requirements, so why keep carrying around the 60lb+ compressor?
(3) Basic everyday homeowner needs; tire inflation, blowing off dusty workbench, filter cleaning, etc. This compressor is perfect for you. Buy it, you will have no regrets.
(4) The higher/150psi is good for the occasional "kick" for some harder wood. (most top out at 120-135psi) Just be sure to dial it back down afterward to save the nailgun seals.
(5) Higher pressure allows for the 120 psi cut-in/restart. This means more useable air pressure for the nailgun; a decrease in the last 2 or 3 shots not being countersank by the gun because of low pressure/waiting for the compressor to kick in. When it drops to 120 psi, it restarts. Most other compressors in this class max out/shut off at 120 psi.
(6) Larger tank, (6 gallon), and higher CFM @ 90psi than most other compressors in this class.
(7) More durable and it has features that make sense, (2 hose couplers, a new handle design lets you run a cable to lock it up at the jobsite). It's better designed than most other small compressors.
There's a reason you see this compressor so often on a finish carpenter's rig - great bang-for-the-buck and it works well. If your expectations are realistic, it will last too. As far as the comments I see about it being loud, it's not any louder than other compressors of similar capacity and price, and actually quieter than some of the rest.
I use the DeWalt D55155 for my intermediate/remodel compressor. It's an absolutely great multi-gun/moderate rough framing compressor, but just too heavy to carry for those days of just finish work. Construction is hard enough on us as it is. Buy your tools accordingly.
The bottom line is this:
Be honest in your tool expectations. I highly recommend this compressor but only for small to med CFM use/finish carpentry work, and some incidental/on-the-spot rough framing (e.g. correcting bad framing for finish work, NOT production rough framing). For construction with higher CFM needs, buy this as your second compressor, not primary.
If you only have basic, small business/homeowner needs, buy it with confidence in your decision. (For the record, I own and use this as one of my on-the-job compressors)
For those new to the construction business/or tool buying, I hope this helps.
For the other contractors, sorry if it sounds like preaching the obvious. Just trying to help the newbies.
- Spread the love -
Also Note: Before starting, be sure to follow the break-in procedure to-the-letter. Since it is an oil-less motor, it will make a difference in how long this compressor lasts, and save you from some unnecessary grief.
128 of 138 found the following review helpful:
 Nice Features But I Had Problem With Two In a Row Mar 12, 2009
By LeeL
I didn't buy this product through Amazon, but I read the reviews here thoroughly before purchasing at the local big box retailer. When I bought the compressor, in my first use, the "panel" with the pressure gauges and the air connections began to pivot and turn back and forth. I wrote Porter Cable and they said to return to the store, that this was not its intended functionality. I got my money back, and debated what I wanted to do next. The other compressors that I was thinking of were much more expensive. So, I tried to purchase another C2002, this time I happened to do it at big box retailer #2. I had the exact same problem! I tried to connect a hose and the whole panel turned. This is an issue because the way the panel is attached to the compressor is primarily through the air outlet coming up below from the tank. Although it didn't leak right away, I could imagine what would happen over time and I would just end up having problems. I ended up going back and getting the Dewalt D55146, which was much more compressor that I needed, but it is sturdy, pretty quiet, and works well. On the plus side, I will say that the C2002 was pretty quiet, very portable, and looks nice. Also, I was planning to do occasional framing nailing and didn't need a production compressor, and the C2002 could easily handle the type of work I was doing. I was new to compressors before buying this and in researching them learned along the way that what the compressor can push (framing, brad, etc.) is a function of PSI, not CFM. CFM is essentially a measure of how fast the compressor will return to its max pressure. If you are doing rapid-fire work then you would need a higher CFM but if you're not nailing so frequently a lower CFM like this has would do. I did plug in my framing nailer with 3 1/4 inch nails to the C2002 and it handled them fine. Hope this is useful.
60 of 63 found the following review helpful:
Air compressor Mar 06, 2008
By Stuart Langrehr
"stuscale"
Was using a one gallon Campbell Haus compressor. It was incredibly loud and didn't hold much air. Using it for filling car and atv tires. Wanted more air capacity and quiter use. This Porter Cable six gallon is far better and quieter too. The extra accessories included with the WK version is less expensive than the standard C2002. Very nice unit and well built. Meets all my needs and runs less often due to the 6 gallon tank. Delivered on time as promised by Amazon. Well done!
46 of 48 found the following review helpful:
Fantastic, small, powerful! Mar 19, 2010
By W. Richards
I've used portable work-site compressors of various types for over 30 years; primarily for pneumatic fasteners and framers. The Porter Cable pancake compressor is, by far, the only one that is truly, comfortably portable, without sharp corners, while at the same time having the PSI and air capacity of six gallons to keep an air-thirsty framer working. I'm amused by the occasional complaints here and at other sites of the Porter Cable not having sufficient power for framing nailers, or that the unit kicks in regularly. Regarding the first commentary, my response is that this compressor has ample capacity to keep two framing nailers busy, PROVIDED THAT the user understands the simple physics in volume air handling. The hose ID is, in actual terms, a secondary stage air tank. The 25 foot x 1/4 inch hose supplied with the compressor is a terrific, light-weight hose and suits the machine's portability. For blowing up things around the home, and filling tires or delivering air to a stapler or brad gun, it is perfect. Having said that, ANY professional carpenter knows that a framing nailer, with its large bore and stroke, gobbles a very large volume of air, which must be backed up with volume that exceeds it. Only a 3/8" hose, or greater, will do that. As to the issue of the compressor kicking in regularly, perhaps some understanding of what's involved with this cycling is needed. All compressors have a turn-on/shut-off tank pressure parameter, whereby the tank pressure never rises above its safe working pressure, nor drops below the design minimum operating pressure. Normally, the action of the regulator allows for the pressure to drop to slightly above the hose supply pressure, at which time it kicks in and recharges the tank to full reserve pressure. Depending on the call for air from the user, this regulation may be more or less frequent, but it should always be predictable, if one were to watch the two dial indicators. When short-cycling occurs, it will be accompanied by a failure of the tank pressure to rise to the full rated pressure of the machine. The cause for frequent, or short, cycling is caused by the presence of water in the tank, which interferes with the pressure regulator. As air is compressed, water--present in all atmosphere--is wrung from it, and contaminates the air tank. This water, if not drained regularly, will eventually rust through the air tank in the long term, but in the short term of only a few hours, will get into the regulator valve, cause short cycling, thus preventing the compressor from attaining maximum stored pressure. Draining the tank must be done once every work-day, minimally, but on humid days, may be required every two or three hours, or whenever short-cycling begins to occur. Small portable compressors simply do not have a provision for collection of water, as large commercial compressors may have. As a helpful hint, the only way to correctly and completely drain the tank of water is to do as follows: Shut off compressor. Pull release ring and allow pressure to drop to at least 30 PSI. Open tank drain cock completely. Tilt compressor toward the valve and wait for the water to blow from it. It may take up to a minute to get it to spit its last, but it's extremely vital for the power, proper operation, and life of the machine. Now, about power... A look at the specs are pretty interesting. Porter Cable's design parameter is 120 PSI minimum to 150 PSI maximum. Their minimum is greater than the maximum of most machines in its class, and the maximum is 15 PSI greater than many machines that top-out at 135 PSI! Now, look at the tank capacity... 6 gallons! Again, it's the gallons of air--the volume--that refills the tool. Of course, such a machine is not ever going to maintain continuous air flow to tools that operate by bleeding off copious volumes of air, but then, such machines are not only not portable, they cost many hundreds, into the thousands, more. Finally, I live where oil-lubed air compressors stop working on cold days. A dry compressor such as the Porter Cable is unaffected by cold, and keeps working. I wonder how many people experience problems with their compressor because they didn't break it in, and began working it out of the box. Read the manual. The compressor requires a 15 minute break-in period, with no load, with the drain valve open. That's key. If you don't do it, you'll have a scored cylinder and air by-pass at the piston, and NO POWER. Your father used to ALWAYS break in his new car engine, because he knew that otherwise he'd be buying stock in an oil company. Even though manufacturers of many motors no longer stress this, it remains a fact that piston motors and engines run longer, more smoothly, more economically, and with greater efficiency after break in. Leakage around piston rings with a new motor is almost always caused by failure to break a motor in. Did you break your compressor in? Hmmmm???
This compressor is the loudest of the ones I've owned in this class, by far, but such is the price for this power, so I would not recommend running it in your bedroom at night.
Buy this compressor, break it in, get a 3/8" hose, and nail away with confidence and gusto!
33 of 35 found the following review helpful:
Break-in instructions - SUPER IMPORTANT!! May 14, 2011
By Paul
After reading TONS of reviews on various air compressors, I knew I'd buy the Porter-Cable version. I'm a homeowner and am NOT an expert in power tools. But I do enjoy home improvement projects and want to buy the best tools I can afford and take good care of them.
That being said, I went out and picked this model up today at Lowe's for $159. Exactly as advertised and exactly what I need.
However, there have been some serious reviews from serious users cautioning of the ABSOLUTE NECESSITY of BREAKING-IN your compressor BEFORE USING IT!! Somehow, if you don't break it in properly beforehand, you may be literally wrecking your expensive hardware before you even get to use it.
EXCEPT THAT THE OWNERS MANUAL THAT CAME WITH MY MODEL C2002 (Type 5 - I found this in very fine print on the labels on the back of the tank) SAID ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT "BREAKING-IN." So I did what some reviewers did and looked for an online manual which can be found at this link: [...]
Bottom line is that breaking-in your compressor is MANDADORY, but it's also a cinch.
Here's the exact wording from the online Porter-Cable manual:
Break-in Procedure
Risk of Unsafe Operation. Serious damage may result if the
following break-in instructions are not closely followed.
This procedure is required before the air compressor is put into service and when
the check valve or a complete compressor pump has been replaced.
1. Make sure the On/Off switch is in the "Off" position.
2. Plug the power cord into the correct branch circuit receptacle. (Refer to Voltage
and Circuit Protection paragraph in the Installation section of this manual.)
3. Open the drain valve (counter-clockwise) fully to permit air to escape and prevent
air pressure build up in the air tank during the break-in period.
MY NOTE: this is sort of counter-intuitive as you want the valve to screw UP
toward the tank - giving the appearance of being closed when it's actually open.
You will quickly realize whether you're right or not because you WILL hear the
air blowing out the valve. No blowing air?? Turn the screw the other way.
4. Move the On/Off switch to "On" position. The compressor will start.
5. Run the compressor for 15 minutes. Make sure the drain valve is open and
there is minimal air pressure build-up in tank.
6. After 15 minutes, close the drain valve by turning clockwise. The air receiver
will fill to "cut-out" pressure and the motor will stop.
The compressor is now ready for use.
Bottom line: open the drain valve to prevent pressure from building up.
When you turn on the compressor, it will blow air out the valve.
Run for 15 min. Basically a "dry run." No pressure.
After 15 min, screw the valve the other way to close it and let
pressure build up until it shuts off.
You're all set.
Thanks to all the guys that took the time to warn me ahead of time.
I'm grateful and hope this post will remove the boogieman of breaking-in
your new compressor.
See all 116 customer reviews on Amazon.com
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